After breakfast at our hotlel in Negombo, where we had a table for two right on the promenade overlooking the beach, we were picked up in our 6 seater van we have all to ourselves and set off under overcast skies for the trip north to Puttalam. It may be cloudy but its still hot and humid, so the airconditioning was welcome as we wound our way through the small towns that dot the road. Mr Cooray stopped to buy us some local lychees to eat on the way as they are in season here and the roadside stalls that are as regular as bar lines on a music score have them in abundance as well as other seasonal fruit and vegies. Also in abundance are pairs of policemen on the side of the road - they have no technology like speed guns but their presence every 10 minutes or so keeps everybody sensible.
We arrived in Puttalam about 1pm - still overcast but with a steady wind blowing off the lagoon. The guesthouse we have booked is from colonial times and is lovingly restored, with high pitched roofs and maps and memorabilia from the past. The walled garden has a pool and beaautiful plants and is very serene as the town bustles outside. Our room has a four poster bed with mosquito netting and old an tiled floor, with antique furtniture. This proves so attractive that Carmel has an afternon sleep while I sample the pool, laze in the garden and then persuade our host to buy me some beer from town as the house does not have a licence to sell it. He returns with six of the the local Anchor Strong which is 8.4% and comes in 500ml cans. I immediately warm to him. Given the choice of western or local fare for tea we opt for local and are treated to a table for two outside on the lawn with a prawn curry, chicken curry, dahl, coconut sambol, rice and caramelised onion. Just when we thought we couldn't fit in any more we were given homemade icecream and more space was quickly found. We slept soundly.
Things we learned about Sri Lanka today #2 : it is very easy to plan an itinerary on Google maps with an input of distance giving you the time it will take. This however does not take in the vagaries of SL traffic and roads, and so the 90 km to Puttalam takes around two and a half hours, and then some to find our hidden little gem. I mentally note that we will be spending more time in the van than expected, and pray we do not succumb to loose bowels during the trip
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